*GASSED EDITOR David Dew-Veal* Days 14-16: Lava Ground

Following a bumpy flight on a tiny plane we landed in Guatamala city. Guatamala had been highly recommended by other travellers, sharing tales of mind boggling nature, great coffee and welcoming people. Our first stop was the ancient city of Antigua and our main goal to summit Acatenango, the highest peak and most active volcano in Latin America. How hard could it be…?

After a long and winding taxi from the airport, where every other person we passed seemed to carry a shotgun, we arrived at our apartment in Antigua just before 1700. Antigua was much calmer than the capital, emphasised by a noticeable absence of shotguns. After a quick turnaround we fortuitously stumbled into OX adventure tours during a briefing for the 2 day volcano hike starting the following morning, which we were promptly squeezed onto. The briefing was long, altitude sickness, inevitable rainy season storms and volcano related dangers were repeatedly highlighted. Along with the need for suitable hiking gear, which was concerning given we’d only packed hand luggage suitable for the Caribbean. 

Up at 5AM the following day, bleary eyed and ready to go, we were blissfully unaware of what was to follow. As we packed our snacks and borrowed ponchos, we got to know the other 16 people on the tour. A varied group, with a range of ages, nationalities and a brave family inc. three children (the youngest being 10)! Reassuring proof that settling down doesn’t necessarily mean the end of travel adventures. 

As we set off in the shuttle to the base of the volcano, Dr Henry took it on himself to explain the grave dangers of altitude sickness. As Tunde and I became rather anxious, the Dr kindly put our minds at ease by explaining that a miracle cure, Viagra, was readily available over the counter. El Classico. 

The ascent up the 13,000 ft volcano started in the garden of an incredibly tranquil home.  Spectacular-views over the mountain range accompanied a scene from an Enid Blighton novel with kittens, puppies, horses and chickens roaming around freely. This blissful environment reflected the warm welcome from the local Mayan guides who made sure we were prepped and ready to go. 

The first section of the hike was challenging, ascending steeply on narrow passes over loose ground. This was not made any easier by the weather beaten faces of people descending back to base camp. To help with motivation we decided to blast some tunes. This instantly had a positive impact and fortunately our group shared the love of reggae music. This was a good sign. Two days later on returning to Antigua we were approached by people from other groups to express their delight at Hearing Burna Boy’s dulcet tones during their own dark moments on the volcano. All bless, no stress – our mantra for the trip. 

Over the next 9 hours we proceeded to wind our way ever higher up the volcano. Passing verdant coffee plantations, dense jungle and eventually clearings with breathtaking views to the horizon.  We stopped for lunch at a plateau and the clouds generously parted. We took the opportunity to meditate, a regular feature of the trip. Being spoilt with such wonderful surroundings has certainly made it easier to practice mindfulness. That being said, the power of the present moment can be found anywhere – or at least that’s what I’ll try and remember when I’m next on a sweaty rush hour tube. 

We arrived at camp just after 1600. The final two hours had been tough. Low oxygen levels meant every movement required twice as much energy and our legs were screaming for a rest. Needless to say, arriving at a comfortable camp site, complete with roaring fire and the promise of dinner was welcome indeed. It was at this point we were reminded of the opportunity to hike for another two hours to reach the summit of Fuego Volcano. We could hear the deep guttural sounds of the volcano erupting, however, could not see anything due to heavy cloud cover. Our guide, Miguel, was explicit about the hike being very challenging and only worth it if the clouds parted so we could see the eruptions up close, which he was doubtful would happen. I must admit, the idea of 4 more hours hiking at altitude towards a cloud covered active volcano was not particularly appealing. I glanced towards Henry and Tunde expecting to be met with similar resignation, however, much to my surprise they immediately signed us up! For this, I will be forever grateful.

Our merry band of dragon hunters set off and whilst being well warned, we had no idea how challenging the hike would be. Traversing fallen trees over deep crevasses and climbing on all fours up loose volcanic soil we gulped the thin air and pushed onwards. Tempers began to fray and motivations wane, when as if by magic the clouds parted to reveal the volcano in all her fire-breathing majesty. This also coincided with the most ethereal sunset I have ever seen. What are the chances? 

We eventually made it to a narrow black ridge leading towards the mouth of the volcano and our group began spontaneously humming the Lord of the Rings theme tune. What followed was one of the most awe inspiring and humbling experience of my life so far. Perched on the ridge we were treated to a firework display fit for the gods as eruption after eruption shot glowing hot lava into the sky. In between eruptions we stole glances on a totally clear night above the clouds – the sun setting behind volcanos to the west and illuminating lightening covered mountain ranges to the east. Tears came to my eyes as I thought of loved ones, I’m particular those who had passed, feeling their presence with me on the border of heaven and earth. I hugged the boys and we agreed on the profound lesson from this experience: if in doubt always walk up the volcano! In the words of I Wayne: Di Warriors Nah Ga Run, Nah Ga Run. Firm Upon Di Lava Ground.